By Michael Cornish
Gliding over reflective turquoise waters towards an
island destination was as thrilling as we had hoped; the smell of salt and
whichever organic compounds that give the sea its signature scent was new to
this course and we were all apt to embrace it. A new country, new ecosystems to discover, what
could be more exciting?
We had just spent nearly two days in a bus traveling from
the cloudy mountains of Monteverde, Costa Rica, to the coastal Bocas del Toro
region of Panama where we were to spend a week studying marine life. Mountains touched the clouds behind us as we
motored away in colorful fiberglass boats pushed along by sputtering two-stroke
Yamaha engines. Split between two boats, we made our way from the mainland
towards a research station on the island Isla Colón.
Steaming along while thinking about the excitement ahead,
I heard a familiar noise. Sounding like
a draining bath tub, I remembered that it was the sound of a fouled propeller,
a sound I have heard many times while navigating dinghies through seaweed. We
abruptly stopped so our captain could remove the piece of rubbish caught in the
prop. Problem solved, we continued on our way.
Eventually, we approached an island and I expected,
anytime, to see a beach we would land on. All of a sudden, while passing some
mangrove trees, we, at a considerable pace, shot into a hole in the trees and
cruised through a tunnel in the mangrove swamp.
A few hundred feet into the swamp, the captain slowed the boat as we
approached a clearing with a small dock and bodega signed “[the] Institute for Tropical Ecology and Conservation”.
We got out of the boat and made our
way, about a quarter of a mile, up a hilly pasture to the station. Small, neat buildings made of yellow pine
with red metal rooves were to be our base for the week.
Early the next morning, we went back out in the boat to a
small reef bordered by a lush mangrove swamp. When we arrived, our only
instructions were to say within site of the boat and look for interesting
things. Snorkeling though the clear water revealed some amazing creatures; the
patch reef was dominated by the delicate fingers of fire coral, domed brain corals,
and the thumb-shaped fingers from corals of the family Porites that were home to countless species of invertebrates, fish,
and algae. Between colonies of these
calcified reef-building species were a plethora of other sessile (unmoving)
invertebrates. Green, blue, and red sponges of all shapes and sizes formed
colorful rock-like structures that were often inhabited by brittlestars, gorgonian
corals (soft corals that look like small, leafless trees), feather duster worms
(which filter feed using feather-like appendages), crawling fire worms, yellow
mantis shrimps living in small holes, amongst many others. These coral flats were also patrolled by many
different fishes. Small yellow and black
gobies (shark-nose gobies) were numerous-often perched on a small coral branch
or on top of a brain coral, sand-colored blennies cruised the sandy bottoms
between coral patches, and wrasses of all different colors cruised above the
reef. Herbivorous fishes, such as the French angelfish (when juveniles), parrotfish
and surgeonfish (Caribbean blue tang), swam about the reef searching for algae
to graze upon.
Towards shore, the mangrove swamp was home to even more
fish. The roots of the mangrove trees sat in crystal clear waters that teemed
with the juvenile fish which use these habitats as nurseries. Because of this, the disappearing of
mangroves threatens commercially-fished species that live in mangroves as juveniles.
As I swam across the reef towards it, a layer of cold, fresh water grew as I
got closer to the mangrove. The water
went from a turquoise to an emerald color which was surprisingly clear. The
tubers from the mangrove trees shot into the water as if they were trees placed
upside down in the water. On them were numerous oysters and other mollusks.
The days that followed consisted of field work on the
reef, conducting a project examining herbivory on seagrass we placed in the territories
of aggressive damselfish. By placing pieces of seagrass at 0.5m distances from
the middle of a territory, we looked at how much herbivory occurred and where,
in hopes that it could indicate how far away from the territory center a
damselfish was willing to defend.
Reluctantly, we left at the end of the week, but not
without a farewell from a pod of dolphins that swam past out boat on the trip
back to the mainland.
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